In M1 Carbine Part 2, we disassembled the M1 Carbine into its major groups.
In M1 Carbine Part 3, we disassembled the Trigger Housing Assembly into its individual components.
In M1 Carbine Part 4, we disassmbled the bolt without using the M1 Carbine Bolt Tool (don’t try this at home kiddies).
In M1 Carbine Part 5, we removed the components from the stock and receiver that were necessary to remove for inspection and discussed those items not removed.
In M1 Carbine Part 6, we examined the component markings and determined whether the parts are correct for the period and manufacturer.
It goes in from the front. It fits into a hole in the housing between the front of the trigger guard and the rear of the magazine well.
It goes in from the right side in the hole forward of the safety.
Next is the magazine catch. It slides in from the right side. In order to get it to go in, you have to compress the safety/magazine catch plunger assembly. There is a hole in the bottom of the housing for this purpose, but I found it easier to compress the plunger assembly from the front and pull the pin punch out of the way once the catch was in far enough to retain the plunger assembly.
It really takes two hands but one was occupied with the camera so I simulated with one hand just to illustrate.
After the catch is pushed on far enough, the magazine catch plunger will snap into the groove and hold the catch in place. At that point, rotate the safety a couple of times to ensure that it moves freely but locks into the “safe” and “fire” positions correctly.
That’s pretty self explanatory.
For some reason, I failed to take a picture of the sear spring going in. There is a well in the top front of the trigger and a matching well in the rear bottom of the sear. Drop the sear spring into the well in the trigger.
You must press the sear to the rear to compress the sear spring, line it up with the mounting holes and the press the trigger pin through the hole in the sear, the hole in the other side of the trigger and then the hole in the side of the housing. What made it complicated was that, with pressure on the sear, it kept going too low to line the holes up; to get it to raise up, pressure would have to be relaxed which would allow the sear spring to push it forward, which would take it out of alignment again. Press to the rear and the sear would also go down at the same time. I ended up having to put slight pressure on the pin and then move the sear around gently until I lucked into getting them lined up enough for the pin to start into the sear…but then the whole thing went cock-eyed and out of alignment so I had to press on the part of the trigger sticking through the trigger guard to get it lined back up again, which made the sear shift enough for the pin to slide back out…ARGHHHH!
Needless to say, this took some patience. I can’t tell you any super whammy-dyne trick to do it. Just keep playing with it and eventually, when the stars (and the parts) align and the rifle Gods smile on you, it will just slip in like it was no big deal.
In fact, when the pin finally pushed in, it went so easily and took me so much by surprise I just stood there with a confused look on my face momentarily thinking “what happened?” It took me a second to realize it had actually gone together.
Pull back on the guide to compress the spring. Make sure the guide goes into the hole in the housing. The spring will try to push to the side which will cause the guide to catch and not go into the hole. You may have to guide it a little with one hand.
Once you get it back far enough to clear the hammer, rotate the pin punch so it is horizontal.
Remove the pin punch.
Sorry…Too much coffee.
Next time we’re going to reassemble the bolt without the luxury of the M1 Carbine Bolt Tool.
Now THAT one required a lot of coffee! Not fun.
See you soon.