In M1 Carbine Part 2, we disassembled the M1 Carbine into its major groups.
In M1 Carbine Part 3, we disassembled the Trigger Housing Assembly into its individual components.
In M1 Carbine Part 4, we disassembled the bolt without using the M1 Carbine Bolt Tool (don’t try this at home kiddies).
In M1 Carbine Part 5, we removed the components from the stock and receiver that were necessary to remove for inspection and discussed those items not removed.
In M1 Carbine Part 6, we examined the component markings and determined whether the parts are correct for the period and manufacturer.
In M1 Carbine Part 7, we reassembled the trigger housing group.
In M1 Carbine Part 8, we reassembled the bolt without the benefit of an M1 Carbine bolt tool.
In M1 Carbine Part 9, we reassembled the components removed from the stock and receiver.
In M1 Carbine Part 10, we disassembled the bolt using the M1 Carbine Bolt tool.
This time we are going to reassemble the bolt using the bolt tool.
In Part 10, we already went over the construction and functions of the bolt tool so if something about the specific use of the bolt tool doesn’t make sense to you, click the above link to Part 10 for a better description of the tool itself.
Back the threaded screw out so that it is out of the way when placing the bolt body into the tool. Also, rotate the extractor plunger compressor so that the forked flange is pointed toward the body of the tool.
The following pictures depict the bolt outside of the tool because I couldn’t get clear pictures with the bolt in the tool, but at this point the bolt body should be placed into the tool just as it was during disassembly. The ejector should be positioned so that it is aligned with the pin in the closed end of the tool, the larger lug on the bolt body should be above the threaded screw.
If that is unclear: hold the bolt in front of your body with the bolt face up and with the larger lug to your right and the smaller lug to your left. The “front” of the bolt would be the part facing your body, the “back” would be facing away from your body. The flat part of the plunger should be toward the “back” of the bolt, or facing away from you, when installed.
While holding the assembly (remember that the bolt should be inserted into the tool already at this point) so that the plunger stays as close to vertical as possible to prevent it from falling, rotate the extractor plunger compressor down until it is positioned over the plunger.
Then, while keeping the ejector lined up with the pin in the closed end of the bolt tool, slowly turn the threaded screw to lock the bolt into the tool and compress the ejector and extractor plunger into position. The plunger should compress almost completely into the extractor spring well.
At this point, the assembly should be pretty solid and stable with both springs compressed.
When the extractor is properly seated, its top surface should be flush with the bolt body. You may have to jiggle the extractor a little while pressing in to get it to pop past the extractor plunger and lock into place.
I cannot possibly express how much easier it is to work with the M1 Carbine bolt using this tool rather than without it. It is well worth the investment.
To round it out at an even dozen, my final post in this series will be installing and removing the sling and sling oiler so be looking for that one shortly.