In M1 Carbine Part 2, we disassembled the M1 Carbine into its major groups.
In M1 Carbine Part 3, we disassembled the Trigger Housing Assembly into its individual components.
In M1 Carbine Part 4, we disassembled the bolt without using the M1 Carbine Bolt Tool (don’t try this at home kiddies).
In M1 Carbine Part 5, we removed the components from the stock and receiver that were necessary to remove for inspection and discussed those items not removed.
In M1 Carbine Part 6, we examined the component markings and determined whether the parts are correct for the period and manufacturer.
In M1 Carbine Part 7, we reassembled the trigger housing group.
In M1 Carbine Part 8, we reassembled the bolt without the benefit of an M1 Carbine bolt tool.
In M1 Carbine Part 9, we reassembled the components removed from the stock and receiver.
In M1 Carbine Part 10, we disassembled the bolt using the M1 Carbine Bolt tool.
In M1 Carbine Part 11, we assembled the bolt using the M1 Carbine Bolt tool.
Update: I was installing the sling backward. The installation procedure remains the same; however, reverse the ends. The buckle end goes through the oiler and the button snap end attaches to the front mount. This prevents you from having to use the blunt object method of flattening the button snap tab to get it to fit through the oiler slot. I plead ignorance and lack of intelligence. Sorry for the confusion.
This is the final installment of this series on the new old M1 Carbine. In this edition, we’re going to install and remove the standard GI web sling and sling oiler.
The sling I purchased for my M1 Carbine is new production, not an original WWII GI piece. For that reason, I was not shy about “making it work”. I don’t know how my new production sling stacks up as far as size and shape of the tabs and clips etc. It was a very tight fit and so I did have to “modify” it to make it fit slightly better.
One side of the stock is cut with a slot for the oiler to fit into.
I purchased an original WWII era GI oiler to go with my rifle. This is simply a tube for gun oil to be carried in with a metal needle dripper attached to the cap.
To ensure you put it through the right way, hold the sling flat against the “ramp” cut in the stock with the end toward the butt. The locking pin that protrudes from the sling mounting tab should be pointing out away from the stock.
This is where I had issues. The mounting tab with the hole was too thick to pass through the slot in the stock after the oiler was installed. I tried some other methods of installation but no joy.
I don’t know that I would have been so quick to pull out the old blunt instrument had this been a 60 year old WWII vintage sling, but with a cheap reproduction, I wasn’t overly concerned. After flattening the tab somewhat, I had to use a drill bit to ream the hole back out so that the locking pin would fit through it, but since then I have had no further problems with installing the sling.
Use the buckle on the front end of the sling to adjust the length.
The slot is cut at a slight angle. If the oiler tries to push out of the slot while the sling is being pushed out, it will pinch and bind the whole thing up. Holding the oiler in place while the end of the sling is being pushed out will make it a much smoother operation.
That’s it. I hope you’ve gotten some useful information out of this series. If you have any questions, suggestions for topics that I may have missed or further information, feel free to comment or e-mail me using the contact me link in the sidebar.