CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 5

Yes, I know it’s been awhile. I should be able to get them knocked out fairly quickly now that life has settled down some (for now).

To recap what we’ve covered so far:

In the first post of the series, we Introduced the CZ-82 to our collection and identified the areas that needed work.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 1, we discussed the loose grips issue and disassembled the slide components.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 2, we disassembled the magazine catch and lightened the magazine catch spring tension.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 3, we removed and disassembled the safety and disassembled the slide.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 4, removed the slide stop and spring, and then the trigger, trigger spring and trigger bar.

In this edition, we’re going to remove the mainspring and then the hammer, sear and other associated fire control parts.

At this point, your pistol should be disassembled to the degree that this warning is unnecessary, but just in case: Be sure the magazine is removed and the chamber empty before beginning any work. Also, all of the rules ALWAYS apply. Even if the firearm is partially disassembled, always ensure that the muzzle is pointing in a safe direction and keep your finger off the trigger.

With that out of the way…and, as usual: click all pictures to make bigger.

The Mainspring is easy to remove. The mainspring plug pin is not pressed in, it is a loose fit, you actually have to be careful not to lose it because it can fall out as soon as you relieve the tension of the mainspring from the plug.

Basically, press in on the mainspring plug until the tension is relieved and then push the pin out.

Then gently let the plug back out until the mainspring is no longer under tension.

I say gently because if you just relax the pressure all at once, you’ll fire the mainspring and plug across the room with authority. If your shop is anything like mine, it could take weeks to find them.

Pull out the plug and the mainspring.

Next is the hammer, sear and remainder of the fire control group.

First, drive out the ejector pin. On mine, both ends of this pin were painted red to double as an indicator when the safety is in the “fire” position. It’s convenient, because when in safe, the safety covers the pin. This pin is also swaged or peened into place so it may be difficult to drive out. I used a starter punch to break it loose and then the pin punch did the job from there.

Actually, that’s oversimplifying. The pin is rather small and I didn’t have a starter punch small enough. After breaking the pin punch that was small enough to fit the pin and hole, I took a larger punch and ground the tip down to form a makeshift starter punch. This worked perfectly…but it meant that I had to buy two new punches…to replace the one I broke and the one I ground down…such is the life of the amateur gunsmith. Nobody every said this was supposed to be easy…just fun.

Next, using a flat bladed jeweler’s screwdriver or something similar, pry out the small plate and pin on the right side that holds the disconnector in.

It shouldn’t be too tight and, once you get it started, it should pull right out.

Then the disconnector lifts free from the frame.

At that point, the automatic safety may just fall out as it is no longer being held in. Either way, the ejector may now be gently pried up and out of the frame and it, and the automatic safety, removed.

Just for identification purposes, this is the automatic safety and the ejector after being removed.

Next, remove the hammer pivot pin.

It shouldn’t be tight, but you may have to use a pin punch to get it started.

Once the hammer pin is removed, don’t try to pull the hammer out yet, but now you can move it around to get it out of the way of the sear.

Next, using your trusty flat bladed jeweler’s screwdriver again, pry out the plate and pin on the left side that holds the sear. Be careful of the sear spring because it is held in by this pin and will fall out after the pin is fully removed…don’t lose it.

Also, take note of the orientation of the spring and how it fits with the automatic safety before taking it apart. I’ll try to show the proper orientation in the assembly posts, but sometimes pictures can’t show it well enough.

Also, it may be easier to remove the sear if the hammer is all the way forward. After the pin is removed, the sear should pull down out of the frame.

It’s hard to get perspective from this picture because it’s such a tight zoom, but I wanted to show that the sear actually straddles the frame in one place so it must be pulled down and forward to remove. This is looking at the left side of the sear and grip frame, from front to back.

Looking at it like this, the muzzle would actually be pointing over your left shoulder.

Next, the hammer and hammer lever pull up out of the frame.

And finally, if the mainspring strut didn’t fall out when you removed the hammer, it is pulled from the frame.

There are a few other things that “can” be removed if absolutely necessary, but not easily and I wouldn’t do it except for replacement. Those are the Barrel and barrel pin, the trigger bar disconnector which is riveted on (and, obviously, the rivet), and the steel ball that is swaged into the frame to provide positive locking for the safety.

And, there you have it.

One CZ vz.82 (some assembly required).

In the next post of the series, we’re going to perform a basic trigger job and then start reassembling the fire control group.

We’re getting there folks, thanks for bearing with me.

Next Post in the series.

4 thoughts on “CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 5

  1. Fantastic website and the write-up on the CZ82! Not sure if you still keep up on here but I have a question. Why would you not work with the angle of the sear instead of the hammer angle? Sure is a bunch easier to work with the sear than that little “notch” in the hammer.

    • Thanks for the kind words.

      First, as I said in the disclaimer to the post on the trigger job, I’m not a gunsmith…the way I did it may not be the best way, it was just the way that seemed the best to me at the time.

      The reason I worked with the hammer angles is because it seemed to me, becuase of the way they fit together, the hammer notch had more impact on whether the sear engagement was positive or negative so that was the angle I needed to work with.

      I probably could have taken material off of the sear rather than the hammer to adjust the creep, but for some reason (and I don’t remember why now) it just seemed to me at the time that it would be better (perhaps less material would need to be removed?) to do it on the hammer rather than the sear.

      At any rate, the proof is in the pudding, my trigger job worked fine and I still carry that pistol almost daily and shoot it regularly with no problems. The trigger still feels as smooth and crisp as the day I did the job on it.

      Your mileage may vary.

  2. Again, thanks for a fantastic website to go to for information on the CZ82. You have put it together in a very easy way for us ‘wanna-be’ gunsmiths to get good information. Now, to those of you reading this other than Curt…listen to Sailorcurt and work the hammer if you are going to do a trigger job. I tried doing the sear because it was easier for me. It turned out very well at first. Now the hammer is following through during firing. The sear and hammer are not engaging enough I guess or my angle is off…not sure.

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