CZ-82 Gunsmigthing Part 9

In the first post of the series, we Introduced the CZ-82 to our collection and identified the areas that needed work.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 1, we discussed the loose grips issue and disassembled the slide components.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 2, we disassembled the magazine catch and lightened the magazine catch spring tension.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 3, we removed and disassembled the safety and disassembled the slide.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 4, we removed the slide stop and spring, and then the trigger, trigger spring and trigger bar.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 5, we removed main spring, hammer, sear, and associated other fire control parts.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 6, we covered the basic trigger job.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 7, we reinstalled the hammer strut, hammer, sear, auto safety, ejector, and disconnector.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 8, we reinstalled the trigger, trigger bar and trigger spring.

In this edition, we’re going to reinstall the mainspring and cap and the safety.

The only trick with the mainspring was to be sure that the hammer strut was in the right place before putting the mainspring under tension. You can’t really see what’s going on up there with everything in place so you kind of have to do it by feel. The strut should be pretty well centered and straight in the frame to be sure that it engages the hammer properly.

The first thing I did is slide the spring onto the hammer strut.

Then the cap over the end of the spring.

Then, while keeping slight tension on the spring, I used a pick to straighten and align the hammer strut. While keeping a bit of tension on the spring, I checked the hammer operation to make sure the strut was engaging it properly. You may have to futz around with it a bit to get it just right, but it shouldn’t be too difficult.

After you’re sure the hammer strut is aligned and engaging the hammer properly, continue to keep a little pressure on the spring to hold it in position until installation is finished.

The easiest way I found to compress the spring was to put the end of the cap against my bench and then press the pistol toward it to compress the spring. Before compressing the spring, make sure the cap is turned so that the slot aligns with the pin holes in the frame.

Once the cap slot aligns with the holes in the frame, simply slide the pin into place. This pin is a loose fit, it is held in by the mainspring tension and the grips. It should not have to be driven in and put a finger under the bottom hole to keep it from dropping completely through as you slip it in.

The safety is also a fairly straightforward operation.

The first step is to install the safety latch spring. It is a very small spring that fits into a well on the right side of the safety (it looks like the left in these pictures because the safety is upside down).

Then the safety latch goes into place and presses against the spring. There will be some spring tension so be careful while installing the latch to keep it from shooting across the room. The spring especially is pretty small and would be easy to lose.

Once the latch is in place, it snaps into the body of the safety so it holds itself in place once positioned.

The safety fits over the “beavertail” section of the rear of the frame behind and below the hammer.

After the safety is in place, install the safety pin. It may need a tap or two to get it completely in place, but shouldn’t require a lot of force.

Center the pin and…done.

Next up, we’ll install the slide stop.

Next Post in the series.

5 thoughts on “CZ-82 Gunsmigthing Part 9

  1. Just a note: I've rebuilt two CZ-82s, an '86 and an '88 model, and they has different style spring caps. The '86 version is made of aluminum and is flat, forming part of the mag well. The installation procedure was a little easy as it didn't have a tendency to turn, making pin alignment easier.

    I also ground the lanyard loop off my '88 model. I had no use for it other than making reinstallation easier.

    The worst part of reassembly of the first one I did ('88) was that the hammer strut kept falling out! I don't know how it did it, and I could NOT get it back in without disassembling the pistol.

    Lesson learned: Tape the hammer strut in place (and any other loose fitting pins) so they stay in place.

  2. cybrludite,I agree….even though 4/5ths of my other 1911s were never made with a seeirs 80 firing pin safety!For the record, that’s 3 more Colts (a 1911 US Army made in 1918, a Gold Cup NM made in ’65 and a seeirs 80 Night Officer’s), a Remington Rand M1911A1 US Army, and a Kimber Desert Warrior.So, the idea of leaving this one particular pistol as: a) only a range pistol, and b) a .22LR that retains the capability to run as a .45ACP, is just fine with me. I have retained the parts so that if I ever sell it to someone else, I can return the safety to factory specifications, for the very litigious reason you stated.

  3. Hello Sailorcurt,

    Your series of posts here has been a fantastic resource. I have found no better set of instructions for the CZ-82 pistol anywhere. I would appreciate some advice relative to installing the safety. My pistol is a surplus CZ-82 in 9×18 that was painted in some black goo that I had to remove. Then I rust blued the slide and frame, knocked the polish off the grips with a gray Scotchbrite pad to give them a matte look, and now I am reassembling the pistol. I have put the safety lever and spring into the right side of the safety as in the photos above, and slide the safety up onto the frame. I can see that the ears of the safety cover the sear pin and the disconnector pin and I can see that the safety lever indexes against the swaged steel ball. But it seems too tight. When I drive the safety pin through its holes in the ‘beavertail’ and the safety to finish the job, the safety will not move up or down. If I instead use a toothpick or other smaller diameter pin to hold things together, it will move up and down intermittently, but not reliably. It looks just like the pictures you have above, but it will not function. Up to that point everything behaved as expected as reassembly progressed, but I cannot carry a pistol without a safety! Any advice you might have will be very appreciated. Thank you!

    • Sorry for the delay, I’ve been out of the country on business.

      It sounds like the steel ball is frozen in place. It’s spring loaded and shouldn’t move too easily, but should move back and forth. That’s what gives you that “click” feel when the safety locks on or off and prevents it from unlocking without putting some pressure on the safety lever. you might try standing the gun barrel down, putting a drop of penetrating oil on the ball and letting it sit for an hour or so, and then tapping it straight in with a small pin punch to see if you can break it loose.

      If the ball moves already and isn’t stuck, there’s another problem. Could be the safety lever itself has a burr or is damaged and is hanging up. It’s really hard to say without being able to see it. My best guess is the swaged ball is frozen in place.

  4. Please ignore my last comment. I was going from memory while on the road. At my age, that’s always a dangerous proposition.

    The spring isn’t behind the ball, it’s on the safety lever itself behind the metal plate you can see in the last three pictures in the post above.

    Sorry for the confusion.

    With that in mind, it sounds like the problem is with that plate that moves back and forth and “locks” against the swaged ball. Maybe it’s got a burr or edge that’s hanging up or is stuck in place? Or maybe the ball itself is damaged or worn so that it has a flat spot the bar is hanging up on?

    I stick to the premise that it’s very hard to diagnose without being able to see it.

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