[Update] I changed the section on reinstalling the ejector. There was a long gap between performing it and blogging about it and I simply didn’t remember one part of it correctly. Something jogged my memory and I’ve now corrected that section. Sorry for the inconvenience.[/Update]
In the first post of the series, we Introduced the CZ-82 to our collection and identified the areas that needed work.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 1, we discussed the loose grips issue and disassembled the slide components.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 2, we disassembled the magazine catch and lightened the magazine catch spring tension.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 3, we removed and disassembled the safety and disassembled the slide.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 4, we removed the slide stop and spring, and then the trigger, trigger spring and trigger bar.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 5, we removed main spring, hammer, sear, and associated other fire control parts.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 6, we covered the basic trigger job.
In this edition of CZ-82 gunsmithing, we’re going to start reassembly.
As usual, click all pix to make bigger.
This picture doesn’t show it, but the hammer should be forward when installing the sear.
Once the sear is in place, partially install the pin, just enough to keep the sear from falling out, don’t push it all the way in yet.
Once the sear sping is installed and positioned correctly, the coiled part of the spring should be aligned with the sear pin holes. Push the pin the rest of the way in to secure the sear and sear spring.
With the ejector upside down, place the auto safety into the bottom of the ejector.
The “hammerhead” part of the auto safety should go to the rear, or away from the arm of the ejector.
I ended up using a small piece of toothpick to through the pin holes of the ejector and auto safety to hold them together while assembling. I cut the toothpick piece down so that it would fit inside the frame, then, when I was driving in the ejector pin, the piece of toothpick was driven out. This maintained their relative positions until they could be secured by the pin. After having tried several things to get it together, I was a bit frustrated at this point and ended up not taking any pictures with the piece of toothpick holding them together.
It may be easier if you hold the frame upside down and raise the ejector into position.
There is a very small crease in the bottom of the auto safety that engages the sear spring. The sear spring not only holds pressure on the sear, but also on the auto safety. It is IMPERATIVE that the auto safety be installed correctly and that the sear spring engages it properly.
You may have to lift up the front of the ejector slightly and use a dental pick, jewelers screwdriver or other object to manipulate the spring into the right position on the auto safety. There is also a small hole in the top of the ejector through which you can see the spring. You may be able to manipulate the spring through that hole to get it seated correctly.
After you have pressed the ejector and auto safety into place, using your fingers to place pressure on the hammer and to operate the sear, make sure the sear engages and releases the hammer correctly, that the sear and the auto safety both are under spring tension and pop back into position after being pressed.
I had a heck of a time getting the spring to stay in the right place and engaged with the auto safety. it took me several tries to get it to align and operate correctly. Ultimately, the toothpick trick helped me get it but it still wasn’t a piece of cake. Be patient, if it doesn’t work, raise the ejector up slightly, re-align the auto safety withe the spring and push the ejector back down again. Try it as many times as you need to because if this mechanism doesn’t work correctly, the firearm will be unsafe and/or inoperable.
After the ejector and auto safety are in position and you are sure that the sear spring is properly seated and working correctly, drive the ejector pin in, thereby driving out the piece of toothpick used to hold it together for assembly.
At this point, the hammer strut should still be rattling loosely around inside the mainspring well, but it should be prevented from falling out by the various parts and pins we just installed.
Next time, we’ll install the trigger components.