Drum Roll Please

Now introducing my long awaited SKS trigger job instructional video.

The entire thing ended up being about 45 minutes long. In order to upload it onto YouTube, I had to split it into 5 segments:

 

This text will be replaced


Part One

This text will be replaced


Part Two

This text will be replaced


Part Three

This text will be replaced


Part Four

This text will be replaced


Part Five

Enjoy.

[Update] David at Vote for David, clued me in in the comments that he has a post up on improving the SKS trigger as well. One aspect that he covers that I don’t is decreasing the first stage or takeup. But he doesn’t talk about decreasing the creep at all…different strokes for different folks. At any rate, David’s post is worth taking a look at just to get a different perspective and also he has some very good pictures that could help if something is unclear to you. [/Update]

24 thoughts on “Drum Roll Please

  1. Great video, the best I’ve seen yet. 100% of my questions were answered. Excellent focus on safety as well as function. Hats off!

    Rich

  2. To continue, I did the trigger job on my Russian SKS and it worked out really well, half the creep, smoother, and safer. Only took 2 Hours. Thanks again for the info.

    rich

  3. Hello all
    Can’t remember exactly where it is… but the part concerning the hammer being higher with the hammer spring somewhat already extending yielding a lower trigger pull is exactly…..wrong.
    The least included angle between the hammer and the hammer spring strut yields the lowest pull weight…simple mechanical leverage. This has been done on the 1911’s with longer sears for years…elementary gunsmithing.
    It also stores the most hammer energy..
    Kivaari

    • Thanks for the input. As I clearly said throughout the videos, I’m no gunsmith. I explained it to the best of my knowledge at the time. With that said, I know of Kivaari by reputation so if he says I was wrong…I was wrong.

      I stand corrected. Thank you.

    • Well true Kivaari. The farther back the hammer rests when engaged with the sear the closer the alignment of the pivot pin and hammer spur pin to the thrust of the spring. Less pressure on the hammer/sear engagement faces. I did this wrong on my first “trigger job”. I did however get rid of 2 of the 3 screeches of creep which helped. (screech, screech, scre-snap. These are some truly awful triggers in stock chinese form.

  4. Another way to look at Kivaari’s June 18 comment:
    The higher the hammer sits, as the sear engagement surface is ground down, the closer the hammer is to being perpendicular to the sear. The contact pressure at the engagement surface becomes greater as the hammer moves closer to being perpendicular. Yes, the tension in the hammer spring is decreased, but, due to the overwhelming increase of pressure at the sear/hammer contact area, trigger pull is actually increased.

  5. Great videos.
    When you tapped the trigger assembly to see if the hammer would fall, you never tapped from the front which, by forcing the whole assembly rearwards, might cause an unrestrained sear to move forward, relative to the hammer. Tapping from the front (or dropping the rifle onto the muzzle) is the most likely direction to cause an uncommanded hammer drop. Tapping on the sides, top, rear, etc, would only cause the sear to seat deeper (if the engagement is positive).

    • That’s the purpose of the sear spring–to keep tension on the sear. Tapping the front of the hammer pushes it back, taking tension off the sear and allowing the sear spring to push the sear as far back as it can go.

  6. Thank you very much for creating these terrific videos. … just what I was looking for. What is new and different to me is that pulling the trigger releases the hammer which then is caught by the lip on the disconnector…. on mine there is no release at all until the disconnector itself is depressed. My understanding from your video is that I need to slightly enlarge the lip on the disconnector so that it is not in contact with the hammer when it is cocked, is that correct?

    • OK, so I got it figured out! I see that you slightly depressed the disconnector until the trigger bar contacted the sear, then you let go of the disconnector while maintaining a bit of pressure on the trigger.

      Mine is done now. Went from serious negative to nice positive engagement.

  7. Really great video. By cutting deeper slots (as shown in increasing sear engagement at the very end of the last video) is also a way to reduce initial (Stage 1) trigger travel. However, you don’t want to go too deep where the trigger safety is essentially defeated. As shown a number of times, test and test again that everything still works as intended.

  8. Curt, Viewed your video, just finishing up my SKS trigger job. I used your video to double check my work. Thanks.

    I have an SKS-D model with the mag release spring in close quarters with the sear spring pin and cannot figure out how to get that spring back in there. Any insight for me on this?

  9. @ Tom, I am exactly where you were when you posted. Just received my hammer and sear from Ben Murray, shorted the creep, polished and fussed with it and boy is it short and smooth. I’m gonna try to just use force on the mag catch spring while holding the front assembly out of the way..

    • Thank You very much Curt. The very best explanation of what and how to test for proper operation and safety. Excellent video, Sir.

    • Will,
      I put the catch in without the spring, then pulled the spring down to the catch pin with a wire (stainless steel cable fish leader) looped thru the spring. One leg of the wire coming down on either side of the pin. Then backed the pin out 3/4 of the way and gently pulled the spring down in place and tapped the pin back in place thru the spring. I had to use a medium screw driver to push the spring back out of the way against the catch to get the pin thru. When I had tried to just pull the spring down without putting the pin in initially, I ended up pulling the spring all the way down thru because considerable force is needed to pull the spring down. I also found that I could ease the process by pinching the spring tangs together with a needle nose pliers. Also, I held the wire ends together with a vice grip which made for a nice handle to pull down on.

      This is how I worked it out… not really a “field friendly” design, in my opinion.

      Were you able to just smash it together?

  10. Thanks for the great videos.
    I built a trigger assembly from parts and was able to fine tune the trigger now in my Yugo SKS.

    Thanks again
    Ruben

  11. Pingback: Next build in the works - Page 7

  12. I can’t find the words to express my thanks for the detail and effort required to post these videos. I take great comfort seeing that you are also a lefty at least in part. Thank you very much. I now feel confident in undertaking this task. You have covered the what ifs and the how to. Very thorough. Bravo.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.