Update at bottom
Someone who stumbled across my CZ-82 posts wrote me to tell me about his project.
He broke down, stripped, blued and reassembled his CZ-82.
To answer your questions before you ask:
1: No, the serial numbers haven’t been altered, I used the smudge tool in Gimp to blur them out. Privacy and all that…
2: He got the grips from grips4u.net and reports a perfect fit out of the box with no fitting.
These are the steps he used for stripping and blueing, as passed to him from another helpful gunney:
1. Stripped paint with Jasco paint stripper/remover from Lowes/Home Depot. Don’t forget to remove your grips and move them well away from your work area. This process may take a few applications. I used a brass and nylon brush to remove the loose paint and get inside of internal parts of the gun.
2. Once stripped, I saturated it with degreaser (BC Gun Scrubber), just to make sure all paint and oil was removed.
3. Of course this process removes ALL paint, so don’t be shocked when your white dot sights go away (this can be taken care of easily later).
4. I used 600 grit, cloth backed, wet/dry sand paper to begin the polishing process. Use long strokes to go with the grain of the metal. I left the top of the slide alone as not to polish off the matte. I then move to 00 steel wool, and then to 0000 steel wool. Clean and degrease when done (steel wool has some oil in it that needs to be removed before bluing).
5. I used Oxpho Blue, 100% cotton cotton balls, Q-Tips, 0000 steel wool, and some chop sticks (for dipping cotton balls into the bluing), and a blow dryer for heat. Don’t forget to glove up for everything after the initial stripping of paint. Oxpho Blue supposedly doesn’t have a problem with oil from fingers, but I wasn’t willing to risk it.
6. Heat the metal and use long even strokes with an Oxpho Blue covered cotton ball and/or swab. It will dry quickly on the heated metal and begin to oxidize / rust. Give it a minute to sit (60 – 120 seconds) and then burnish well with your 0000 steel wool. To really get a good blue you need to spend the time to burnish well. This process evens out the blotchiness of the bluing process and preps the metal for the next application.
7. I repeated this process 6 times before I was happy with the color match and sheen of the cold blue (heat, blue, burnish).
8. I then took the parts and put them in boiling water for about 3 minutes. I then applied a slurry of baking soda to all newly blued parts, then after about 30 minutes, I dunk the blued parts back into the boiled water to remove the slurry. This process neutralizes the acids in the bluing process and begins to help eliminate the smell.
9. I then use a light gun oil, like Rem Oil or a little CLP and some 0000 steel wool and shine op all the blue. This is really the final burnish for your bluing.
10. (This one is an extra step, but a recommended one) Now to completely remove the smell I put the blued parts in a gallon ziplock bag filled with motor oil for 48 – 72 hours.
11. Degrease completely, when clean and dry, oil and grease the gun as you would after a typical cleaning. Apply a very light coat of CLP to all metal surfaces
Again, click to make bigger.
This one has original grips which the owner obviously did some polishing on as well. Very nice job on both the metal work and the grips.
These little guns really clean up nice…and they shoot great too.