CZ-82 Gunsmithing, Part 7

[Update] I changed the section on reinstalling the ejector. There was a long gap between performing it and blogging about it and I simply didn’t remember one part of it correctly. Something jogged my memory and I’ve now corrected that section. Sorry for the inconvenience.[/Update]

In the first post of the series, we Introduced the CZ-82 to our collection and identified the areas that needed work.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 1, we discussed the loose grips issue and disassembled the slide components.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 2, we disassembled the magazine catch and lightened the magazine catch spring tension.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 3, we removed and disassembled the safety and disassembled the slide.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 4, we removed the slide stop and spring, and then the trigger, trigger spring and trigger bar.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 5, we removed main spring, hammer, sear, and associated other fire control parts.
In CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 6, we covered the basic trigger job.

In this edition of CZ-82 gunsmithing, we’re going to start reassembly.

As usual, click all pix to make bigger.

First, drop the hammer strut down into the mainspring well.

It will just kind of flop around in there until we get a couple of other components in so don’t worry about positioning too much, just keep it from falling back out.

Next, the hammer lever pin slies into the hole in the hammer body.

It’s a loose fit and the lever should be able to swivel freely. The lever should be installed toward the front of the hammer.

Next, drop the hammer and lever into the frame.

Don’t install the hammer pin yet, just let the hammer and lever rest in the frame.

The next step is to install the sear. It has a channel (the arrow points to this area) with ears on either side. The ears straddle the frame when installed.

The sear goes in from the bottom one of the “ears” that form the channel on the outside, one on the inside of the frame. The flat face of the sear goes forward.

This picture doesn’t show it, but the hammer should be forward when installing the sear.

Once the sear is in place, partially install the pin, just enough to keep the sear from falling out, don’t push it all the way in yet.

Next the sear spring is placed in the sear.

When properly installed, the bent arm of the sear spring will be to the rear and laying atop the arm of the sear. The straight arm of the sear spring will be pointing up.

Once the sear sping is installed and positioned correctly, the coiled part of the spring should be aligned with the sear pin holes. Push the pin the rest of the way in to secure the sear and sear spring.

At this point, install the hammer pin.

When installed correctly, the end with the small “nipple” will be to the left.

Now for the fun part. This was the most challenging part of the entire re-assembly process.

With the ejector upside down, place the auto safety into the bottom of the ejector.

The “hammerhead” part of the auto safety should go to the rear, or away from the arm of the ejector.

I ended up using a small piece of toothpick to through the pin holes of the ejector and auto safety to hold them together while assembling. I cut the toothpick piece down so that it would fit inside the frame, then, when I was driving in the ejector pin, the piece of toothpick was driven out. This maintained their relative positions until they could be secured by the pin. After having tried several things to get it together, I was a bit frustrated at this point and ended up not taking any pictures with the piece of toothpick holding them together.

While holding the auto safety and ejector together (preferably with the piece of toothpick that I described) place them atop the sear and sear spring.

It may be easier if you hold the frame upside down and raise the ejector into position.

There is a very small crease in the bottom of the auto safety that engages the sear spring. The sear spring not only holds pressure on the sear, but also on the auto safety. It is IMPERATIVE that the auto safety be installed correctly and that the sear spring engages it properly.

You may have to lift up the front of the ejector slightly and use a dental pick, jewelers screwdriver or other object to manipulate the spring into the right position on the auto safety. There is also a small hole in the top of the ejector through which you can see the spring. You may be able to manipulate the spring through that hole to get it seated correctly.

After you have pressed the ejector and auto safety into place, using your fingers to place pressure on the hammer and to operate the sear, make sure the sear engages and releases the hammer correctly, that the sear and the auto safety both are under spring tension and pop back into position after being pressed.

I had a heck of a time getting the spring to stay in the right place and engaged with the auto safety. it took me several tries to get it to align and operate correctly. Ultimately, the toothpick trick helped me get it but it still wasn’t a piece of cake. Be patient, if it doesn’t work, raise the ejector up slightly, re-align the auto safety withe the spring and push the ejector back down again. Try it as many times as you need to because if this mechanism doesn’t work correctly, the firearm will be unsafe and/or inoperable.

After the ejector and auto safety are in position and you are sure that the sear spring is properly seated and working correctly, drive the ejector pin in, thereby driving out the piece of toothpick used to hold it together for assembly.

Finally, install the disconnector into it’s well in the frame.

And then install the pin that holds the disconnector.

At this point, the hammer strut should still be rattling loosely around inside the mainspring well, but it should be prevented from falling out by the various parts and pins we just installed.

Next time, we’ll install the trigger components.

Next Post in the series.


20 thoughts on “CZ-82 Gunsmithing, Part 7

  1. I used a punch to push the spring back and towards the auto safety while I moved the hammer block until I felt the auto safety / hammer block tension, it took me 2 hours before I managed to come up with this idea. then it only took me 5 minutes

  2. I, too, used a punch to position the sear spring and it IS a trip. Took many attempts to get it in the right position. The second CZ-82 I did fell right into place. Maybe experience works! Thank God for toothpicks.

  3. I used a punch. It took me over an hour to get it to engage. When I went to install the trigger bar it would not go into the auto safety. So I started over and installed the trigger assembly and bar before positioning the spring. It worked the first time. Maybe luck so I'm not ready to try it again. 🙂

  4. Actually, the problem with the trigger bar was probably the hammer arm. When installing the trigger bar, it's best to have the hammer all the way forward. When I've tried to get it in with the hammer cocked, it was a serious pain to get the trigger bar in correctly.

  5. Pingback: CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 6 | Captain of a Crew of One

  6. Pingback: CZ-82 Gunsmithing Part 8 | Captain of a Crew of One

  7. Pingback: CZ-82 Parkerizing Part 4…finis | Captain of a Crew of One

  8. My sear spring wouldn’t stay where it was supposed to with a wooden toothpick – only with the actual force-fit pin. I made a separate pin punch out of a nail seated in a dowel, and cut the nail face flat and filed a groove in it to catch the spring, so it wouldn’t slip off. I then used the method where the hammer pushes the auto safety into place while holding the spring down through the hole in the ejector. The wrinkle is that there aren’t enough hands! I had to hold my wooden-handled punch down with one of my front teeth (to keep the spring pressed down), while I drove in the pin with a pin punch and hammer. Only took me two tries once I figured out this approach.

  9. Curt, with the help of your pictures and instructions, I’ve stripped my 82 and was beginning to reassemble it, when I noiticed the hammer lever pin’s “nub”, meaning the part that goes back into the hole on the hammer, was kind of short. It seems like it should be the width of the hammer and mount into both holes, but it barely fits in the hole on the install side. If I don’t hold it right, it falls out before I can even put the hammer back in the frame.
    To be honest, I didn’t pay that close of attention when I removed it, and wondered if maybe it had broken off and I didn’t catch it.
    Any help would be appreciated, and again, thanks for for your help.

    • Sorry it took so long to reply, I was on travel for business.

      It’s hard to diagnose things without being able to actually see
      them…No, the hammer lever “nub” shouldn’t go all the way through the hammer, but if it’s worn enough that it won’t stay in with the hammer in the gun, then it may be a good idea to try to find a replacement.

      The frame should prevent the lever from falling out once the hammer is in the gun, so if the problem is just getting it in, try dabbing some gun grease on the nub to hold it together long enough to get it into the frame. If the lever falls out while the hammer is in the gun, there’s definitely a problem, either with the lever, the hammer or the frame.

      Hope that helped.

  10. Does the straight arm of the sear spring have to be inside of the hole on the top of the ejector? Or does it lie with even more tension beyond that hole towards the rear of the gun?

  11. I like Tim’s question above. My question is a result of after going to the range my gun does not fire everytime. It goes through the cycle. If I pull the trigger again it might fire. Well I am wondering if I have the sear spring installed correctly now. I see all the people saying how hard it is and mine went together like a hot knife thru warm butter… easy. But now I wonder if that is my issue. The sear spring… the stright end not in the right location. I saw mine come thru the hole. Lifted the auto safety part up just a little pushed the spring with a toothpick and push back down and I was done. Does that end of the spring is it to come thru that hole or no? So is the sear spring the reason I don’t get a consistent firing anymore? It fired great before I tool it apart. Oh you ask why I took it apart…. well when I got it it had many issues but after a new trigger spring slide release spring and trigger bar. I saved it from the scrap…. it worked great, then the person before me tried to make it all silver and it just looked plain bad… so I creakoted it… looks awesome, but now doesn’t fire consistently. So is this a sear spring issue? And what does the sear actually do? I ask because to be honest do to how long it took me to get it put back together after Creakoting, I don’t think mine even had a sear and sear spring in it. I ordered one but I have no old one unless I lost it. I thank you in advance for you help…. and love all the detail you have put into the things here.


  12. The sear spring could be your problem. The bent part of the sear spring should be down against the sear, it’s the straight part that should have been sticking up when you installed the ejector, the auto safety (inside the ejector) should be pressing down on the straight part of the sear spring. The straight part of the sear spring should NOT be sticking up through the hole in the top of the ejector, if it is, you didn’t get it in right.

    Even if the straight part is not sticking up through the hole, it may not have engaged the auto safety.

    Pull the slide off the gun. With the hammer cocked, the auto safety is the little rectangular piece between the hammer and the back of the flat part of the ejector (the part with the hole in it). Us a toothpick or pen, or something to gently pry up on the back of the auto safety just enough to see if it’s under spring tension. If it resists the movement and pops back where it was when it was released, the sear spring has engaged it. if it flops around with no tension, there’s your problem. you need to pull the ejector and auto safety back up and re-install the sear spring so that it engages the auto safety.

    The sear is what holds the hammer back when the gun is cocked, and then releases it when you pull the trigger. There is a small wedge on the back of the sear that catches in a notch on the hammer that keeps the hammer back until the sear is moved out of the way.

    The auto safety blocks the movement of the sear until the trigger is pulled. What that means is that if you drop the gun or bang it against something, the auto safety prevents the sear from being jarred out of position and releasing the hammer.

    Pulling the trigger both releases the sear, and releases the auto safety.

    What is probably happening in your case is the sear spring is not engaged with the auto safety, so it’s just flopping around in there. If you happen to get lucky and it’s in the right position when you pull the trigger, the gun goes off, but if it’s not in the right position, it blocks the sear from releasing and the gun doesn’t fire.

    Get the sear spring installed correctly and the problem should go away.

    If that’s not it, get back to me and I can try to help you troubleshoot some more.

    • Well not I see why people say it’s a pain. I got it bit yes it’s not easy. Matter of fact I had to get it 3 times. The tigger wasn’t resetting so I put the old pieces back in it and it’s ok. So I figured they might have a small burr… pulled them back out, tried to clean up and put new parts back in still dosent always reset. But more I work with it the better it gets. So I’m gonna leave it the way it is see how it shoots and go from there.

      Thank you again for your help and all. What I did was ur steps but I put a very slight bend in the stright section of the spring so it leans toward the small lip on the safety part and it works pretty good now. I keep ya posted.

      Thank you 🙂

  13. I use the straw off a spray can, the little thin ones that come with wd40 or canned air, over the straight leg to guide the sear spring into position then slip it off.

  14. I have no problem with the concept of the seat-spring and the safety, I have a problem knowing where exactly the strait part of the sear spring goes on the safety. I need to see wher on the safety exactly it needs to be placed.
    I have no luck in the past week achieving this part of the installation and have labored hours each day trying. Please help!!!

    • I feel your frustration. The first time I did it, I had to try many times before I got it right. Unfortunately, the only way I have to take a picture of where the sear spring goes in the auto safety is to take my gun apart to do it. As you can imagine, I’m not eager to take apart a perfectly working gun, especially one as complicated as this to get back together.

      The best picture of the way the spring goes in is picture #10 above.

      Several people have come up with different approaches to getting the sear spring in correctly and posted them in comments above. Try some of them and see if they work.

      The best way I’ve found to do it is use a cut down toothpick to hold the auto safety and ejector together while they being installed, start lowering them into place in the frame (I put the frame in a padded vise) when they get low enough (but not too low) I stick a jeweler’s screwdriver through the hole in the ejector, catch the straight part of the sear spring and press it down as I finish putting the ejector and auto safety in place. Once they’re seated, I drive the pin in which pushes out the piece of toothpick.

      It still generally takes three or four tries before I get it, but that’s about as easy a method as I’ve found.

      If you still can’t get it to engage properly, there’s the possibility that there’s a problem with the sear spring, sear or auto safety…something so worn that the pieces just won’t go together correctly, but if the gun was working before you took it apart, this is probably not it…you just need to keep trying until you get it back together correctly.

      Sorry I couldn’t be more help.

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